QCW tasting club: Hearty winter reds

Baby, it's cold outside!   If you're anything like me, the latest winter storm has you bundled up at home waiting for the ice to melt and looking for a substantial glass of red to keep you company while you do it.

This was the inspiration for my kick-off QueenCity Wino tasting club. 

I put together a group of my closest wine-loving friends, threw together some hearty snacks, got the fire crackling and set to tasting a whole bunch of wine. 

We tried 10 different "hearty winter reds" and rated and ranked each one.  The overall consensus:  everyone learned a lot, tasted a whole bunch of great wines we might not have otherwise tried, and can't wait do to it again.


The "aroma panel"

 The concept was simple:  everyone brings the red wine of their choice in the "under $13" price range and we'll try each one to choose our favorite.  Before tasting, we reviewed basic guidelines for evaluating appearance, nose and flavor and then experimented with an "aroma panel" to introduce the idea of basic aromas and tastes that might be found in each glass.   

Armed with rating sheets, we blind tasted and rated each on a scale from 1 - 10 (1=I instantly regret trying it.  10= I'm buying this on the way home.) and then ranked them in order of personal preference.




Michael David Petite Petit

 The wines ranged from Beaujolais to Merlot to California and Spanish blends to classic Cabernet Sauvignon.  We even had an Armenian pomegranate on the table.  

Most of our selections were clearly "hearty" with alcohol percentages in the +13.5% range with the obvious exception of the Beaujolais and one surprisingly low Garnacha/Tempranillo blend at just 12.5% each.  

The "big boy" on the table was a petite sirah/petit verdot blend that weighed in at a whopping 15%. 



Here's the line up:

2006 Tin Roof Cellars Merlot
2008 Chateau du Souzy Beaujolais Villages
2008 Michael David Winery Petite Petit
2007 The Show Cabernet Sauvignon
2008 Bridgman Cabernet Sauvignon
2008 Cheap Date Cabernet Sauvignon
2007 Panarroz Jumilla
2006 Mosen Cleto Campo de Borja
2009 ReVah Pomegranate
2009 Contempo Inferno


Mosen Cleto Campo de Borja

 Of the ten wines evaluated, the clear favorite was a 2006 Mosen Cleto Campo de Borja.  This Spanish blend is 75% Garnacha/25% Tempranillo. 

In the glass, this opaque purple wine gave off aromas of black cherry, coffee and chocolate with a hint of minty herbaceousness. This was by far the most balanced of all the wines tasted.  Smooth and tannic with a lightly acidic presentation and a long peppery finish.  On the palate, the Campo had tastes of black cherry and plum, currant, raisin and a faint vegetal quality often found in younger Cabernets.   It was fantastic with briny marinated black olives and pungent blue cheese.  

Every wine on the table was highly drinkable and worthy of consideration.  But don't take my word for it...have your own Tasting Club and see for yourself.   Cheers!

Baked Mushroom Linguine

If there is anything more comforting than baked pasta, its baked pasta full of earthy mushrooms, bathed in cream sauce and covered with a crunchy baked pecorino romano crust.   Its heaven on a plate!   

Pair it with a Pinot Noir and you've got the stuff that cozy winter's nights are made of.

What you'll need:

3 oz Dried mushrooms
4 cups Boiling water
Fresh Rosemary and Thyme (couple sprigs each)
7 tbsp Unsalted butter
5 tbsp Flour
1 1/2 cups Heavy cream
1 onion, diced
2 lbs Mushrooms (mixed), stems removed, sliced or quartered
2 1/2 tsp Coarse salt
1/2 tsp Ground black pepper
1 lb Linguine
1/2 cup Pecorino romano cheese, grated

Just do it:

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees. Butter 9x13 baking dish and set aside.

Place dried mushrooms in a bowl and cover with boiling water.  Let sit 30 minutes.

Use slotted spoon to lift out re-hydrated mushrooms and press to release any liquid.  Set aside.  Strain mushroom liquid through fine sieve (line with paper towel if necessary) to remove any sediment and reserve.  You should have about 4 cups.

Melt 5 tablespoons butter in large saucepan over medium heat.  Once bubbling, whisk in flour until mixture begins to brown (about 3 minutes).  While whisking, slowing pour in mushroom stock.  Continuing cooking over medium head, whisking constantly, until mixture bubbles and thickens. 

Stir in heavy cream and drop in bouquet garni of rosemary and thyme (sprigs wrapped in cheesecloth and tied with string).   Reduce to gentle simmer and cook 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, bring large pot of water to boil for linguine and cook until very al dente (about 2-3 minutes less than normal cooking time).  

While water is heating, in a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat.  Add diced onion and cook until it begins to soften.  Add fresh mushrooms and saute until they begin to release liquid.   Add reserved mushrooms and 2 tsps chopped thyme and cooked until all are tender and brown.  

Combine mushrooms with cream sauce (removing bouquet garni) and stir to combine.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.     Stir in cooked and drained linguine and pour into prepared baking dish.  Sprinkle with grated cheese and bake until browned and bubbling, about 30 minutes.   

What to drink:

This is a rich, earthy plate of comfort.  Pair it with a "put your feet up" red wine and make it an occasion.  A Pinot Noir is an easy choice but I can also think of several Italian reds that will match perfectly...a Montalcino d'Abruzzo, Barbera d'Asti, even an Amarone di Valpolicello.  My new favorite is a bottle I picked up by accident a few weeks ago...a 2003 San Giorgio Ciampoleto.  This is a rosso di tavolo (red table wine), a mysterious blended wine with intense aromas of truffle and fig and palate seducing flavors to match.   Pick a bottle up at the Wine Shop at Foxcroft (about $16) and try not to drink the whole thing.  Or maybe don't try....just pile some baked mushroom linguine on your plate, put your feet up, and keep the bottle handy so you can keep filling your glass.   Enjoy!

South American Butternut Squash Stew

Let's cut to the chase:  this stuff is awesome.   It's hearty and delicious and tangibly healthful.   One bite and you'll know exactly what I mean...you just feel better eating it.   And on top of being a bowlful of good-for-you, its one of those dishes that hits all the taste and texture notes with earthy, comforting squash, bright and fresh green beans, hearty sausage, acidic tomato balanced perfectly with creamy tartness of the goat cheese and the whole thing topped with salty, crunchy roasted seeds.    You should stop whatever else you're doing and make yourself a pot of this stew immediately.   I mean it.  Ok...you can read the recipe first...but then, stop everything and start cooking. 

What you'll need to serve 8:

4 lb butternut squash (7-8 cups diced)

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 lb link sausage, casing removed
4 cups sliced yellow onions
6 cloves garlic, sliced
1 can diced tomatoes in juice (14.5 oz)
1/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1 jalepeno chile pepper, seeded and minced
1 tbsp minced fresh oregano leaves or 1 tsp dried
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 lb fresh green beans, stems removed
1 1/2 cups corn kernels, frozen (and thawed) or fresh off the cob
2 tbsp minced fresh cilantro leaves
Kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste
Crumbled feta or Cotija cheese
Roasted squash seeds

Ingredient notes: 

• Use whatever sausage you like...Italian, Choriza, Turkey, Hot, Mild...it all works. 
• Keep extra chicken broth on hand.  As written, the stew has very little liquid at completion, so if you like your stew "soupier" you'll want to add more broth.
• Your call on the jalepeno.  
• Flat leaf parsley works fine in place of cilantro.
• Ditto on goat cheese in place of feta.

Let's do this:

Peel the squash, cut in half and remove seeds (reserving to roast).  Dice squash into equal pieces (about 1 inch) and set aside.

Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in large pot over medium heat.  Add sausage and cook, breaking up chunks, until sausage is brown on all sides, about 10 minutes.   Stir in sliced onions and cook until they begin to soften, 8-10 minutes.   Add garlic and cook for 1 minute more.

Stir in diced squash, tomatoes, broth, jalepeno, oregano and smoked paprika.  Partially cover pot and reduce heat to medium-low.  Cook stew, stirring occasionally, until squash is almost tender, about 20 minutes.

While the stew is stewing, roast the seeds:  Rinse to remove any fibrous strands and pat dry.  Toss with a tablespoon of olive oil, kosher salt and ground black pepper and roast on a baking sheet at 350 degrees for 15 minutes.

Add beans and corn.  Partially cover and cook another 10 minutes.  Stir in cilantro.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.   Garnish stew with crumbled cheese and roasted squash seeds. 

What to drink:

Pairing wine with vegetables can be tricky.  I based my decision on the primary ingredients:  butternut squash and turkey sausage.   There were a few directions I could have gone...a Cote du Rhone caught my eye and a Malbec from the same region of South America this recipe originated from...but I went with the '09 Mark West Pinot Noir.    

As it opened, I picked up aromas of black cherry, cassis, fig and truffle.   It was at once earthy and acidic...light bodied but with a peppery finish.  It was an easy match for the stew...and at less than $10 a bottle, a great bargain.    

When you make the stew (and I know you will!) let me know what wine you choose to pair with it.   Enjoy!

Sangiovese 2008 Terre di Chieti

An inexpensive Italian red is getting the once over tonight. Picked it up at Total Wine for all of $8...lets see how it holds up to some bold food pairings.

This is an inky purple wine with a strong fruit fragrance..."grapey!" was the impression I had when I first opened the bottle. An hour or so later, it emotes dark cherry and a near peppery finish (although that could be from the meal I'm matching it with). It has a luscious mouth feel, coating your whole palate. A bit of breathing time has served it well. Upon first opening it was a bit acidic and hit the back of the tonque with a tiny bite. Now it is much more luxurious, bombing the taste buds with fruitiness.

I've matched it with some hearty, but simple fare....blue cheese with baguette starter course and a classic caesar salad alongside grilled salt and pepper sirloin topped with balsamic mushrooms and onions.

STARTER COURSE

As I described above, the wine on its own is a bit of acidic with tart fruit flavors. Tasting the blue cheese, I can feel the Sangiovese moving higher in the palate, smoothing it out and giving greater depth to the overall taste. The fruit is still there, but it's darker as the strength of the cheese tamps down the acidity. This is a great pairing and I could easily munch my way through the whole block if I didn't have a main course to look forward to.

THE MAIN EVENT

The classic caesar consists of romaine, shaved parmesan, and fresh croutons coated in dressing made from anchovies, garlic, dijon, worcester, lemon juice, salt, pepper, egg yolk and olive oil. It's a simple salad with intense flavors which seem to be enhanced by this wine. The Sangiovese seems to pull the garlic and pepper right into your nose but not in an unpleasant way. The acid makes another appearance with this salad as the intense spicyness of the anchovy/garlic combination goads it out of hiding after the cheese course. The croutons do a great job of keeping these rowdy flavors in check however, and the overall experience of the pairing, while intense, is definitely compatible.

I've grilled a thin sirloin with a simple preparation of salt and pepper and topped it with red onion and button mushrooms sauteed in olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Again, the Sangiovese never met a peppercorn it didn't like, but the balsamic jumps in and grabs the fruit, making it impossible for the pepper to steal the show. The wine actually tastes dry with this pairing...a fascinating switch from the initial "fruit bomb" impression.

THE CONCLUSION

I love how each different food pairing brings a completely different experience with this wine. By itself, this Sangiovese was acidic and grapey, but once paired it showed itself to be a hearty and likeable Red. If you are not a fan of bold flavors or a spicy finish on a hearty Red, this may not be the wine for you. I am a fan of both and find myself lucky to have found this bargain wine to match with my dinner tonight.

RECIPE

The key to replicating this menu is the Caesar Salad. To serve 6, chop 2 heads of Romaine lettuce and toss with about 2.5 oz of shredded Parmeggiano Regiano cheese. Cube a 8-10 oz baguette and toss with 2 oz melted butter, 2 oz olive oil, and 2 tsp each kosher salt and fresh ground pepper and bake at 425 for ~10 minutes. In the meantime, make the dressing. Take 2 cloves of garlic, 4 anchovy filets and 2 tsp kosher salt and use two forks to grind into a paste.

Add a few grinds of fresh pepper, a tbsp each of dijon mustard and worcester sauce, the juice from half a lemon, one egg yolk, and about a quarter cup of olive oil and whisk til completely incorporated.

Toss dressing, Romaine, parmesan and croutons together and let sit about 15 minutes before serving. Drink with a delicious Red wine like the Sangiovese described above and enjoy!

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